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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that led to their humble restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.